Rebuilding Touch Control '55 Cub

[4thGen]

Are there any vendors who sell a complete overhaul kit for the control unit and pump? I've been looking at the different gasket and rebuild kits at both TM and Steiner, and have only found piecemeal kits. Gasket set A or B, O-ring kit C but you might need to buy special O-ring D, screen filters E and F, boots G, H, or I, etc. I figure if I have the unit open I may as well replace everything serviceable as it leaks like a sieve, takes in water somehow, and lacks enough downward pressure to even slightly move the front suspension. I know for a fact it hasn't been serviced let alone overhauled in at least 18 years. Since I got it in 2014 I've simply been topping off the reservoir after every 2 hours of plowing

I don't want to buy a few kits and then find out I need to order additional parts. Is this just a situation of needing to pick up the phone, call one of the vendors, and give them the casting numbers?

I'm trying to minimize downtime as I don't have much room in my schedule but would like to get this done in preparation for winter plowing. It's one of those situations such as "if I wash my car today it will rain tomorrow, but if I don't wash my car then it won't rain"

I also need to pop open the left side final and see what is going on with the brakes, as looking in there with a flashlight I can see that the liner is not even attached to a pin. Safety first!

Casting on TC 360719-R1
Pump 52035R94

[Don McCombs]

The short answer is “No”. If they produced a “one size fits all” kit, it would be prohibitively expensive, when chances are, you won’t need everything in it. If you want to have everything on hand, just in case, you’ll need to buy it all. Then return what you don’t use.

[ricky racer]

If I recall, you'll end up using just about everything in the kits. What you'll have to return will cost you more in postage than the credit you'll receive.
I suggest buying all the materials your going to need prior to disassembling the unit. Then wait until you have the time to tear it down and reassemble it all at one sitting. Keep the work area clean and keep your parts clean or you'll be pulling it apart fix it. Search this website for prior post showing in detail the step by step process, it'll be a big help. Others may provide links to aid your search. I think Dale Finch did a really good post with lots of pictures if I recall.
Pay attention to how each piece was removed and it's orientation for reassembly.
Looking at the kit from TM, I think they've got about everything you'll need in the kit. The screen you won't know until you get it apart.

[4thGen]

If I recall, you'll end up using just about everything in the kits. What you'll have to return will cost you more in postage than the credit you'll receive.
I suggest buying all the materials your going to need prior to disassembling the unit. Then wait until you have the time to tear it down and reassemble it all at one sitting. Keep the work area clean and keep your parts clean or you'll be pulling it apart fix it. Search this website for prior post showing in detail the step by step process, it'll be a big help. Others may provide links to aid your search. I think Dale Finch did a really good post with lots of pictures if I recall.
Pay attention to how each piece was removed and it's orientation for reassembly.
Looking at the kit from TM, I think they've got about everything you'll need in the kit. The screen you won't know until you get it apart.

Yes, I do a lot more reading than posting and have my silverware tray ready. I am 100% OK with having a few extra parts instead of not having enough. I wouldn't consider doing a job like this unless I could get it done in a day or two in a row - I've seen the self-loathing that happens!

[ricky racer]

If I recall, you'll end up using just about everything in the kits. What you'll have to return will cost you more in postage than the credit you'll receive.
I suggest buying all the materials your going to need prior to disassembling the unit. Then wait until you have the time to tear it down and reassemble it all at one sitting. Keep the work area clean and keep your parts clean or you'll be pulling it apart fix it. Search this website for prior post showing in detail the step by step process, it'll be a big help. Others may provide links to aid your search. I think Dale Finch did a really good post with lots of pictures if I recall.
Pay attention to how each piece was removed and it's orientation for reassembly.
Looking at the kit from TM, I think they've got about everything you'll need in the kit. The screen you won't know until you get it apart.

Yes, I do a lot more reading than posting and have my silverware tray ready. I am 100% OK with having a few extra parts instead of not having enough. I wouldn't consider doing a job like this unless I could get it done in a day or two in a row - I've seen the self-loathing that happens!

[SamsFarm]

Have you tried your local Case IH dealer?

[Dale Finch]

In the process of my rebuilds, there were pretty much only 2 extra parts I needed: the screen (Steiner's was less expensive than TM's & comparable), and twice I needed a wavey washer (aka tension spring).

I don't remember which of the 2 wavey washers, but Steiner's has both:
https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS4661-Washer-Hydraulic-Spring-Tension

https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS4650-Washer-Hydraulic-Spring-Tension

[Greenthumbfarms]

Check the condition of your cylinder boots before ordering parts, they will probably need changing. Dale can attest that I did not order mine before the rebuild, and a few helpful members had new ones in their toolboxes at the Barnyard Bash to help me out.

[4thGen]

Check the condition of your cylinder boots before ordering parts, they will probably need changing. Dale can attest that I did not order mine before the rebuild, and a few helpful members had new ones in their toolboxes at the Barnyard Bash to help me out.

Yes, the boots were invisible so I ordered new ones, thanks! I also ordered a new filter/screen just in case, and grabbed gaskets for the finals since I need to do some brake work as well..

[Glen]

Hi,
If the Touch Control is leaking on the outside of it, the most common thing is the Control Valve leaking.
It has 1 o ring on it.
It is at the front of the unit.
The piston o rings could leak, but it's not as common as the Control Valve o ring leaking, from what I have read on here.

Below is a listing for the Control Valve o ring at TM Tractor, there is a pic at the bottom of the page showing where it is. The Control Valve slides out the front of the unit.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm

Below is a pic from TM Tractor, of the front of a Touch Control, with the rockshaft removed, showing the control valve, at the lower right, right in the pic.
The piston is higher up.
If you use a light, maybe you can see where it is leaking before you take it apart.

There might be nothing leaking at the head end of the unit, which is by the dash.

It is a good idea to replace the oil seals at the final drives, on the upper shafts, where the brakes are, if you remove a final drive, if the seals haven't been replaced lately.
If the seals leak, it can get oil on the brake lining.
There should be no oil in the areas where the brakes are.

There is an oil seal on each side of the brake drum, 1 in the transmission housing, and 1 in the final drive.
Same for the right or left final drive.
The right side is more work to replace the seal in the trans housing, you have to remove the seat post, battery box, loosen the platform, so it will lift up at the rear, and the right side extension, to get to the seal in the trans housing.
TM Tractor has new oil seals, they are 2 different sizes.

Below are their listings, there are pics showing where the seals are.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/245fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/044fp.htm

Below is a post by Dale Finch, showing removing a final drive.
The Cub has the 1st style of brake. A 1955 Cub should have the 2nd style of brakes, the rod is separate from the brake band.
Be sure to buy the right style of brake bands, if you replace the bands.

Be sure to wedge the front axle pivot, before removing parts from the rear of the Cub.
A Cub is heavier on the left side, and can tip over when removing parts of it from the rear.
The wedges are shown in the post, you will have to make them from wood.
Hammer them in tight, be sure they don't hit at the small end.
Check them some during the work, to be sure they don't come loose.

viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436

[4thGen]

Hi,
If the Touch Control is leaking on the outside of it, the most common thing is the Control Valve leaking.
It has 1 o ring on it.
It is at the front of the unit.
The piston o rings could leak, but it's not as common as the Control Valve o ring leaking, from what I have read on here.

Below is a listing for the Control Valve o ring at TM Tractor, there is a pic at the bottom of the page showing where it is. The Control Valve slides out the front of the unit.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm

Below is a pic from TM Tractor, of the front of a Touch Control, with the rockshaft removed, showing the control valve, at the lower right, right in the pic.
The piston is higher up.
If you use a light, maybe you can see where it is leaking before you take it apart.

There might be nothing leaking at the head end of the unit, which is by the dash.

It is a good idea to replace the oil seals at the final drives, on the upper shafts, where the brakes are, if you remove a final drive, if the seals haven't been replaced lately.
If the seals leak, it can get oil on the brake lining.
There should be no oil in the areas where the brakes are.

There is an oil seal on each side of the brake drum, 1 in the transmission housing, and 1 in the final drive.
Same for the right or left final drive.
The right side is more work to replace the seal in the trans housing, you have to remove the seat post, battery box, loosen the platform, so it will lift up at the rear, and the right side extension, to get to the seal in the trans housing.
TM Tractor has new oil seals, they are 2 different sizes.

Below are their listings, there are pics showing where the seals are.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/245fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/044fp.htm

Below is a post by Dale Finch, showing removing a final drive.
The Cub has the 1st style of brake. A 1955 Cub should have the 2nd style of brakes, the rod is separate from the brake band.
Be sure to buy the right style of brake bands, if you replace the bands.

Be sure to wedge the front axle pivot, before removing parts from the rear of the Cub.
A Cub is heavier on the left side, and can tip over when removing parts of it from the rear.
The wedges are shown in the post, you will have to make them from wood.
Hammer them in tight, be sure they don't hit at the small end.
Check them some during the work, to be sure they don't come loose.

http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 42&t=78436

Fantastic, thank you very much!