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130 hitch questions
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:07 pm
- Location: N.C. Lincolnton
130 hitch questions
I can't seem to grasp the concept. While looking at the rear of my 130 I see two upper bars that move up and down with the controls (Rockshaft) These are connected to the bottom cultivators by rods that have an adjustment nut and springs. The cultivators are attached to bears that pivot up and down in brackets attached to each bottom fender. Now heres the thing, how does a 3 point hitch connect to the tractor. I know that a upper link has to be installed to connect the top of the implement , but how does each side of the implement connect to the tractor. Does the rockshaft lower enough to attach the implement sides?? Inquiring minds.....
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 14559
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Rochester, NY
Your tractor does not have a 3pt hitch. That's why it's not clear. You can't hook up a 3pt hitch implement with what you have now. Compare what you have with a picture of a tractor with a real 3pt hitch, and you'll see the difference.
Several pieces need to be added to the tractor to give it 3pt hitch.
First, the rear "cultivators" need to be completely removed from the tractor. These aren't really cultivators, BTW, they just scrub out the wheel tracks. The cultivators are up in front.
Second, you need to add two lower link arms. These anchor to the rear axle housings, using custom brackets. These two arms are what attach to the implement.
Third, you need to connect the lower link arms to the rockshaft arms using two vertical links.
Fourth, you need to add some stabilization between the lower link arms so they don't swing around all the time.
Here's a picture of what you are missing:
http://www.worksaver.com/product/hk95.html
Several pieces need to be added to the tractor to give it 3pt hitch.
First, the rear "cultivators" need to be completely removed from the tractor. These aren't really cultivators, BTW, they just scrub out the wheel tracks. The cultivators are up in front.
Second, you need to add two lower link arms. These anchor to the rear axle housings, using custom brackets. These two arms are what attach to the implement.
Third, you need to connect the lower link arms to the rockshaft arms using two vertical links.
Fourth, you need to add some stabilization between the lower link arms so they don't swing around all the time.
Here's a picture of what you are missing:
http://www.worksaver.com/product/hk95.html
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:07 pm
- Location: N.C. Lincolnton
Can I replace the rear cultivator square arms with lift arms, then add a top link? Of course connect the lift arms to the rock shaft
Check out the set up as it is now
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/ ... 0_0090.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/ ... 0_0089.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/ ... 0_0088.jpg
Check out the set up as it is now
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/ ... 0_0090.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/ ... 0_0089.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/ ... 0_0088.jpg
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4955
- Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
- Zip Code: 14559
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Rochester, NY
You can't just unbolt the square arms at the pivots and bolt the lift arms on, but you've got the right basic idea.
The brackets for the cultivators will not handle the load of, say, a blade or carrier. They were designed for those little cultivator "scrubbers," which don't weigh very much or pull very hard.
Plus, the lift arms need to be able to swing in and out, so you can put them over the ends of the lift pins on the implements. Those mounts look like they just rotate.
You can get 3pt lift pins at Tractor supply that are threaded on one end. Just screw those into a bolt hole in the rear casting on each side, then mount your lift arm.
The brackets for the cultivators will not handle the load of, say, a blade or carrier. They were designed for those little cultivator "scrubbers," which don't weigh very much or pull very hard.
Plus, the lift arms need to be able to swing in and out, so you can put them over the ends of the lift pins on the implements. Those mounts look like they just rotate.
You can get 3pt lift pins at Tractor supply that are threaded on one end. Just screw those into a bolt hole in the rear casting on each side, then mount your lift arm.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 613
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 1:18 pm
- Zip Code: 27055
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super A
1955 Cub Lo-boy
1955 Ferguson TO-35 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Yadkinville
Worksaver makes a hitch to fit your tractor. They are not cheap, but they save alot of headaches.
You might also consider a one-point fast hitch, which was an IH option on the tractor. They work great, if you have the implements that fit. Some aftermarket equipment is still available, such as a Howse Bush Hog and Leinbach equipment makes some in Winston-Salem.
Image from Wisconsin Historical Society
Good Luck.
You might also consider a one-point fast hitch, which was an IH option on the tractor. They work great, if you have the implements that fit. Some aftermarket equipment is still available, such as a Howse Bush Hog and Leinbach equipment makes some in Winston-Salem.
Image from Wisconsin Historical Society
Good Luck.
The four most expensive words in tractor restoration: "We might as well..."
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- 10+ Years
The problem with that worksaver rig, and it's a good one for the super-A/100/130/140, is that there's no convenient way to move the top link independently from the lower arms.
On that particular model, just for the convenience, you might want to think about a hydraulic top link. I'm not up to snuff on the 130's, but on a Super-A, you'd have to buy a hydraulic bypass block, and an open-center valve to control such a thing. Not a hideous investment, considering the time it will save you in adjusting your implements.
On that particular model, just for the convenience, you might want to think about a hydraulic top link. I'm not up to snuff on the 130's, but on a Super-A, you'd have to buy a hydraulic bypass block, and an open-center valve to control such a thing. Not a hideous investment, considering the time it will save you in adjusting your implements.
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- Cub Pro
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- Zip Code: 00000
- Location: Ponchatoula, La.
-
- 10+ Years
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 613
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 1:18 pm
- Zip Code: 27055
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super A
1955 Cub Lo-boy
1955 Ferguson TO-35 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Yadkinville
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:07 pm
- Location: N.C. Lincolnton
Merl, can you give me the dimensions on the attachments plate. I would order just the plates if I could. Seems like the machine shop business in this area have all dried up. I've already got the lift arms and other stuff. I also tired to just screw in the implement links but thet are bigger in diameter and fine threads.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 613
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 1:18 pm
- Zip Code: 27055
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super A
1955 Cub Lo-boy
1955 Ferguson TO-35 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Yadkinville
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 940
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 8:06 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Location: Ponchatoula, La.
slingblade wrote:Merl, can you give me the dimensions on the attachments plate. I would order just the plates if I could. Seems like the machine shop business in this area have all dried up. I've already got the lift arms and other stuff. I also tired to just screw in the implement links but thet are bigger in diameter and fine threads.
Will do tomorrow. (Friday, May 12th, 06.)
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