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Grand dad's Cub

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KenHigginbotham
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Grand dad's Cub

Postby KenHigginbotham » Mon Dec 27, 2004 12:52 pm

Hi, Great forum. I've tried reading through the intro stuff here and have a tremendous headstart already - I am going to restore grand dad's cub and need some advice.

To start with, the tractor ran a year or so ago, but the other day when I tried to crank it, the engine was froze up. I suspect the pistons just got tight. It's been inside, out of the rain so I thought it would be ok. I read the suggestion to pour some kerosene in the cylinders for a week or two and then try to get it to move. Does anyone else have any suggestions. Is this safe - As long as I take it easy?

I also downloaded a spec sheet so I can determine what model cub I have...

Thanks -
Ken

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beaconlight
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Dec 27, 2004 12:57 pm

Keep topping it off. Put in gear and try to rock a little everry day or two when you top it off. Patience is the key to success.

Bill
Bill

"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne

" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
- Aesop

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KenHigginbotham
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Postby KenHigginbotham » Mon Dec 27, 2004 1:07 pm

Thanks - I 'll do it and post my progress...

I suppose it'd be a good idea to drain the oil & refill it before I try to start it if I can break it loose...

Just curious, How much of a nightmare would it be to find parts, etc, if I take it completely apart? From browsing the forum here, it seem parts are not that hard to come by...

kh

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Mon Dec 27, 2004 2:37 pm

Ken I think you will find parts pretty easy to find. If you can't find something, let us know and we'll help.

Yes, once you break the engine free, change the oil before you try to start it. The kerosene you pour in the cylinders will drain down past the rings into the crankcase and dilute the oil.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Dec 27, 2004 4:41 pm

Ken, if you live in freezing country does it have antifreeeze in it? Hopefully it hasn't frozen and cracked the block or head letting water in to a cylinder. No longer than it's been setting it shouldn't be too hard to free up. One note, if the strater drive and/or flywheel ring gear get worn the starter can lock when you try to start it, which also locks the engine. To check this loosen the starter bolts a little and try rocking it in 3rd gear. If it's the starter drive locked to the ring gear you will hear a pop and the engine will turn.
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KenHigginbotham
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Postby KenHigginbotham » Tue Dec 28, 2004 6:16 am

Well, I tried the kerosene yesterday. Poured it in and did some rocking back and fourth but couldn't get it to break free. I'll try this for several days and see what happens. I didn't think about the starter locking it up, I pull it and see if it makes any difference. I assume it has some kind of throw-out bearing that may stick.

Is the PTO engaged when the lever is in the forward or backward postion?

The numbers indicate it's a '53. The numbers on the plate include a 'J' at the end. Is this of much significance?

It has gotten below freezing here but the tractor is inside so I don't think it got gold enough to freeze inside the engine. Looks like there was some antifreeze in it - just not sure how much.

Thanks for all your help.
Ken

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Postby Ron L » Tue Dec 28, 2004 10:08 am

Ken. The "J" indicates that it has a Rockford clutch. As far as your rocking - be gentle and don't go crazy. Don't force the engine to turn through your transmittion. You don't want to brake, bend or distort anything with all that pressure on the camshaft & pistons...........
Ron

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue Dec 28, 2004 10:20 am

Pto engages when lever is moved to the rear.

The starter has a drive on a screw thread that when you pull the starter rod spins forward and engages the ring gear on the flywheel. If the teeth on the drive or ringgear become blunt on the edges the drive will sometimes lock with the teeth end to end rather than engaging. When this happens the engine will not turn. This frequently can be freed by putting tractor in 3rd and rocking a rear wheel, though sometimes it is necessary to loosen the starter to free it. That may not be your problem, but it is a possibility.
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KenHigginbotham
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Postby KenHigginbotham » Tue Dec 28, 2004 10:48 am

Cool - Thanks for th info on the clutch and starter. I'll be sure and try not force the engine to break loose - I guess I could cause more problems than I'd be fixin. I'll continue to try the kerosene / gentle rock back forth for a week or so and see what happens.

I found a local dealer that say's he can order a lot of the stuff I may be needing...

Thanks,
Ken

Ron L
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Postby Ron L » Tue Dec 28, 2004 5:38 pm

Ken. Try turning with a hand crank 1st...... IF you have one.
Ron

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Denis
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Postby Denis » Wed Dec 29, 2004 3:08 am

Something that is often overlooked and that can also prevent the engine from turning is a stuck valve. If moisture has got in there one or more may be sticking, open the side cover and see if you can move all the valves freely. Denis.
Fortunate to live in one of the most beautiful places in the world.

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KenHigginbotham
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Postby KenHigginbotham » Wed Dec 29, 2004 6:12 am

Report: No progress. Refilled with more kerosene and rocked some more. Removed the starter and no apparent problem there either.

I have tried the hand crank. It was about gone (almost broke), when I started and I finished it off - Broke the tip in two. I'll get another crank and try it along with the rocking.

Hum... Guess I could look at the valves before I remove the head.

Thanks,
Ken

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Wed Dec 29, 2004 8:28 am

Ken - you can try white vinegar instead of kerosene. It will take a couple of weeks or more of soaking with either one before they will work.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Wed Dec 29, 2004 9:34 am

Rather than replacing the crank you can drill the pin out and replce it with stock from a hardware store.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!

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KenHigginbotham
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Postby KenHigginbotham » Wed Dec 29, 2004 9:43 am

Good idea - I was looking on the net for a new crank. Guess I just need to make sure it's long enough first.

Ken


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