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Good question. The guy we bought our cub from ran them over the engine.m Needless to say the wires burnt up.
I'm thinking of running the hot wire from the switch, spitting it there, then running the hot wire to both lights along and underneath the edge of the tank. The ground wire from each light I will find the nearest screw/bolt that the light can be grounded too and usethat.
That's what i'm thinking anyways. Anybody have some thoughts?
In the harness to the front of the generator, splice the second wire as it reaches the fan shroud, left goes over the shroud and has 2 clips.
A couple modifications to the wiring harnesses I have on a couple of my cubs. Two have disconnect plugs up under the hood on the wiring to the headlights. Pull the plug and lift off the hood without having to unhook the wires at the headlights. You CAN NOT follow the factory wiring route with this method unless you want to remove the upper radiator hose each time. No, you may not ask how I figured that out! Either go over the top of the radiator hose or loop around the inside front nose of the hood. If you go the "around the nose route" you'll need a couple adhesive clips or the pads that you run wire ties through to hold the wire up and not be visible behind the grill.
The simplest I have is the one I had to rewire everything on. I followed the factory routing and ran a wire from the switch to the right headlight. From there I ran another wire to the left headlight. I crimped both wires together in the ring terminal at the right headlight. One less splice to deal with if you can live with looking at two wires on the back of the light and not drop the screws when you unhook the headlights to take the hood off. Just push the wires pack through the grommet in the hood.
Here's a nifty modification, by lazyuniondriver, to solve headlight wiring problems: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=74708&p=599418&hilit=headlight+wire#p599418
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist
I ran mine the same way Scrivet did...
My next move will be a disconnect along the line so the tractor can be split apart at the bellhousing without removing the hood each time.
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
I also solder all my crimped SpaeNaur connections. Sure eliminates the terminals falling off, which they can do.
"Before beginning a hunt, it is wise to ask someone what you are looking for before you begin looking for it." - Winnie
Cub Manual Server
Seems like the wiring would be a minor part of the difficulty for splitting at the bellhousing without removing the hood.
The original wires ran up the right side with the harness and were intended to be held in place by the 'clamps' on the fan shroud (under the radiator hose for the left) and fed through the holes in the hood. There are (were?) clips in the hood to hold the whole harness between the dash and generator etc. The only tricky one is 12V lights have a 'plug' that you need to remove the connectors from, won't fit through the holes in the hood.
If you have a gaffed up harness you can still run it the same way. If the clips are missing from the fan shroud, a wire tie will work.
Regardless, any connection or connector should be soldered. Preferably with shrink tube. Beware of cheap connectors (most any these days)!
When I have a Cub with a home made harness or one that has cracked insulation I replace it. Problems in wiring WILL cause you problems when you least want them.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
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